1770 Stays
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1760-1770 Strapless stays in wool sateen.
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The back of the stays
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The side of the stays
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Detail of the skirts at the side, showing the stitches at the points which strengthen these areas
Description
The stays are lined with white linen, and fastened by spiral lacing at the back. Vertical strips of baleen are between the sateen and the lining in evenly spaced channels, and there are two horizontal strips along the front neckline which are thicker than the others. The skirts round the lower edge are bound with leather, and the lower centre front has layers of buckram and paper under the lining as a bellypiece to keep it rigid.
The armholes are covered with pieces of leather with pinked edges, to strengthen the edges and soften them for the wearer's comfort.
Strapless stays were worn by women of all classes and they were practical garments allowing the wearer greater freedom of movement for their arms and shoulders without the constraint of straps. The superb workmanship of this pair of stays suggests a wearer of good social standing.
A pattern of the stays can be found in Patterns of Fashion 5 published by The School of Historical Dress and available from their website.
Contemporary illustration
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At Sandpit Gate by Paul Sandby, c.1752, Royal Collection Trust
History
For centuries wearing stays or a corset was considered as morally essential for women as it was to provide the body shape in fashion at the time. Eighteenth century accounts from the Charity Hospital, Bedford, record money being specifically allocated by the authorities to provide stays for girls.