1810s Aubergine silk scarf
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1810-1820 Aubergine silk scarf.

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The scarf spread out
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Detail of the flower sprays on one end
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Detail of the flower sprays on the other end
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Detail of the lower part of the end pattern
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Detail of the reverse of one end
Description
A long narrow shawl was called a scarf if it was at least three times as long as its width.
This scarf is in silk twill with a woven pattern at each end, 11½" deep. The design is of eight polychrome flower sprays, 7½" deep, with a row of scrolling foliage below, 1⅝" deep, and narrower leaves in green, ⅝" deep, below that. The sprays face in opposite directions each end, and some of the small flowers which are in red at one end, are in white at the other end. Maybe the weaver ran out of red silk.
The sides are the selvedges, ½" wide, which have red and cream stripes, and the ends have a ⅞" deep fringe of frayed warp threads, which is now fairly matted.
The scarf is 25" wide and 100" long, and it was probably woven in Spitalfields.
Contemporary illustrations
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Fashion plate from Ackermann's Repository of Arts, December 1812
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Fashion plate from Ackermann's Repository of Arts, June 1813
Contemporary items
1812 White cotton dress, pink, blue pattern
More scarves from the Hopkins Collection can be seen in Shawls, available from the Hopkins Costume Trust bookshop.