1820s Black silk shoes
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1820-1835 A pair of black figured silk shoes
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The front of the shoes
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The sole of the left shoe; some writing can just be made out near the front
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Detail showing the spring heel
Description
The silk has a tiny self check pattern in different weaves of black silk, with white dots.
The shoes are made as left and right, which was not always standard at this date.
The vamps are lined with natural linen, and the quarters are lined with ivory kid which is cut higher at the back to form a heel grip; the socks are natural linen.
The top edges are bound with black silk ribbon, and a bow of black silk ribbon, ¹³⁄₁₆" wide, is on the throat.
The soles are tan leather with a spring heel, which consists of a sliver of leather slipped in at the heel between the sole and the insole.The side edges of the soles and the spring heels are coloured black.
The sole of the left shoe has some faint writing near the front end, which might be the name of the wearer.
Contemporary illustrations
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Fashion plate in La Belle Assemblée, September 1818
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Fashion plate in La Belle Assemblée, June 1827
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Portrait of Marie Elizabeth Amalie Franziska, Princess of Wagram by François Gabriel Guillaume Lépaulle,1832. Government Art Collection
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Detail of the portrait showing the shoes with a spring heel
History
Spring heels are found on shoes from at least as early as the1500s; they fell out of use when more substantial heels came into fashion from the late sixteenth century until around 1800 when flat shoes reappeared. “La Belle Assemblée” for June 1810 stated: “Spring heels are coming in; a little rise in the heels sets off a pretty instep and ankle to great advantage, and by advancing the body gives an easy gait to the carriage.”
Contemporary items
More shoes from the Hopkins Collection can be seen in Footwear, published by The School of Historical Dress and available from the Hopkins Costume Trust bookshop.