1840s Shawl
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1840-1850 A shawl in silk and wool.

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The shawl spread out
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Detail of the centre of the shawl
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Detail of the centre of the border on one side
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Detail of a motif in the centre
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Detail showing the reverse of a motif
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The centre of a border on one end
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Detail of the fringe gate on the reverse showing the interlocking weft threads at the junction of colour sections
Description
The warp is cream silk and the weft is wool.
The ground of the field is cream with polychrome wool making the woven pattern of exotic flowers and trailing stems which mirror round the centre.
The border has a pale blue ground, 9¾" wide at the ends and 10¼" wide at the sides, with a pattern of polychrome exotic flowers; the design changes direction at the centre of each side.
Two sides are the selvedges of the fabric with no fringe. The other two sides have a 2½" deep fringe of the silk warp threads dyed in different colours, coming from fringe gates which are in sections of corresponding colours, about 10" wide and ½" deep, and dyed at that point, probably by tie-dying. The different coloured weft threads of each section are interlocked where they meet, which is an indicator that the shawl is probably of French origin.
It is 64" long and 68" wide altogether, but the corners seem to have become stretched out.
Contemporary illustrations
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Fashion plate, Moda di Parigi, in Corriere delle Dame, October 1842
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Detail from a fashion plate, December 1843
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Fashion plate in Ladies' Cabinet, April 1846
Contemporary items
1848 Striped silk taffeta dress
More shawls from the Hopkins Collection can be seen in Shawls, available from the Hopkins Costume Trust bookshop.