1850s Blue and red velvet waistcoat
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1848-1855 A waistcoat in blue silk satin with a red velvet pattern
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The back of the waistcoat
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Detail of the front showing one of the lapels
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Detail of the fabric
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Description
The fabric of the foreparts is blue silk satin with a pattern of stylised vine leaves and grapes in red silk velvet.
The waistcoat is double breasted with a seam down the centre of each forepart. There are four buttonholes worked in red thread on the sloping edge of each forepart, and four self covered buttons on the right forepart which are missing on the left. The lapels have a button and a worked buttonhole at their tips.
The foreparts have pockets on each side with welted tops which are 4¾" long and ¹¹⁄₁₆" deep.
The back is dark brown silesia with no straps or ties to adjust the waist size.
The waistcoat is lined with cream cotton twill, and the forepart hems have dark brown leather facings. These are 2¼" deep at the centre narrowing to ¾" at the side seams as the lower edge of the foreparts curves down to the centre.
This waistcoat was tailored to fit its wearer who seems to have had uneven shoulders. The left shoulder seam is 4¾" long and the one on the right is 4⅛"; the back and the lining on the right has a wedge shaped piece inserted along the seam, ⅜" wide at the neck tapering to nothing at the armhole.
Contemporary illustrations
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Portrait of Matias Sorzano Najera by Vincente Lopez y Portana, 1840. Museo de Bellas Artes de Bilbao
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Fashion plate Modes de Paris in Journal des Tailleurs, 1848
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Contemporary items
1848 Striped silk taffeta dress
1850 Printed cotton dress and cape.
More waistcoats from the Hopkins Collection can be seen in Waistcoats, published by The School of Historical Dress and available from the Hopkins Costume Trust bookshop.