1830s Whitework collars
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White embroidered cotton muslin collars like these were often worn with dresses in the late 1820s and early 1830s sometimes attached to a chemisette tucked into the neckline, or part of a canezou covering most of the bodice. The collars were often very elaborate, with frills and embroidery over two or three layers, and spreading wide over the ballooning sleeves. They were also made of lace and embroidered cotton net.
They are all shown on the 1832 Grey silk taffeta dress.
(1) Whitework canezou
1828-1835 A canezou in cotton muslin with whitework.
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The back of the canezou
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Detail of the embroidery
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Detail of the embroidered edge
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The canezou spread out.
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Detail of a front edge showing the buttons
Description
The main panel tapers into 1" wide plain bands at the waist, which are 3" long at the back and each front; these would be covered by the belt of the dress when worn. Its outer edges have frills which are 2" wide at the back, 2⅜" wide at the front, widening to 5" over each shoulder, and they are gathered in to a piped seam with the main panel. Under the frill on each shoulder there is a curved piece of muslin, 4" at the widest part, sewn along 9" of the main panel, with a 5" deep frill gathered on to the outer edge.
The neck has a plain collar with a stand of 1¼" and a fall of 1⅜" which both curve to nothing at the front; this might have had a ruff attached when worn.
The front edges, 9½" long, are finished with a folded bias strip of muslin, ¼" wide, sewn on with piping; they are fastened with a covered button and a worked loop at the neck and another button and loop 2" down. The back is 13" from neck to waist..
The embroidery is quite tight and has the effect of slightly gathering the plain sections of muslin.
A pattern of this canezou can be found in White-embroidered costume accessories The 1790s to 1840s by Heather Toomer, published by Heather Toomer Antique Lace.
(2) White cotton muslin double pelerine collar
1828-1835 A cotton muslin collar with two layers and whitework decoration.
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The back of the collar
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Detail of the front
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Detail of the centre back showing where the pattern reverses direction.
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The collar spread out
Description
The top collar is nearly as deep as the layer underneath, at the back.
The pointed fronts of the main collar extend down to the waist and might have been held under a belt; they are 12" long on the right and 12¾" on the left.
The scalloped lower edge has an embroidered border 2" deep all round, with a toothed edge which continues along the front edges; large leafy motifs decorate the fronts.
The top collar curves round up to the neck at the front and has a 4" deep border with the same scalloped edge as the main collar.
The embroidery is quite tight and has the effect of slightly gathering the plain sections of muslin.
(3) White muslin pelerine collar with three layers
1828-1835 A white muslin pelerine collar in three layers.
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The back of the collar
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The collar spread out
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Detail of the top collar on the shoulder
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Detail of the front
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Detail of the embroidery on the main panel at the centre back where the second layer is sewn on.
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Description
All three layers have toothed scalloped edges with whitework 1⅛" wide.
The main panel extends into lappets which hang down the front, 15½" long, and could be caught under a belt.
The second layer has slight gathering at the shoulders and is sewn with a piped seam halfway up the main panel, which has a row of embroidery above the seam. Its edges are just above the main panel most of the way round but stop short of the waist in the front, and it has large motifs inside the edges at the shoulders
The third layer on top is a small collar whose lower edge overlaps the second layer at the front shoulders; it has similar large motifs at the shoulders.
The back is 12" from the neck to the point at the lower edge at the centre back.
The embroidery is quite tight and has the effect of slightly gathering the plain sections of muslin.
Contemporary illustrations
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Fashion plate in Le Follet, April 1832
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Fashion plate from Journal des Dames, July 1832
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Portrait of a Lady set against a landscape by an unknown artist, c.1830
(4) White cotton muslin pelerine double collar
1828-1835 A white cotton muslin pelerine collar in two layers.
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The back of the collar
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Detail of the embroidery
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The collar spread out
Description
It is decorated with whitework and both layers have toothed edges.
The main collar has 2" deep scallops round its edge with motifs above, and the border is 6½" deep altogether. The front edges are 12¼" long, and the back is 13¼" deep at the centre.
The top collar is 7" deep at the centre back, curving round the shoulders and up to the neck in front. Its border, 3⅛" deep, is a pared down version of the motifs on the main collar.
The embroidery is quite tight and has the effect of slightly gathering the plain sections of muslin.
Contemporary illustrations
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Fashion plate from Petit Courrier des Dames, June 1831
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Fashion plate from Le Follet, April 1834
