1913 Satin evening coat
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1912-1916 An evening coat in greenish yellow ochre silk satin
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The coat from the side
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The back of the coat
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Detail of the back showing the top of the skirt gathers
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Detail of the trim over the front fastening
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Detail of the trimming on the end of a sleeve
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The label inside the back neck; modern net can be seen round it which has been added in an attempt to protect the shredded lining.
Description
The lining is pink silk chiffon which is now rather fragile, disintegrating over the shoulders and round the hem and sleeve ends.
Most of the coat is constructed from one piece of satin which goes right round the body and extends to form most of the sleeves; the front parts go over the shoulders like a yoke, joining each other at the top of the centre back with a 1¾" long seam. Below this across the top of the back there is a separate panel in two sections with an 8½" long seam at the centre, where it rises to a shallow point; it extends each side to form the back of the sleeves, narrowing to 5" at the ends, and is 42" wide right across. The seams with the rest of the coat are piped, and at the centre back there is an 8" long horizontal trim of a self rouleau twisted with loops at each end, over 6" of gathers which make a ⅜" high frill above.
The front edges have a very long horizontal dart at bust level; the top edge of this is folded over and gathered along its 11" length, forming a frill, ½" wide at the front edges and tapering to nothing.
The ends of the sleeves are trimmed with self rouleaux twisted and knotted.
The coat is fastened at bust level with one hook and an oversewn eye at the ends of the horizontal darts; a 3¾" high oval buckle shape in the satin with a double fill round it sits over the fastening.
The coat came from Harrods and the label is inside the back neck where the lining has all but disappeared. It says: Mantles and Coats Harrods London S.W.
Contemporary illustrations
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Fashion drawing in The Queen, 1912
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Item in the catalogue for Spring 1913, Thompsons, Tottenham Court Rd, London
