1820s Black scarf
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1820-1835 A scarf in wool and cotton
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The scarf spread out
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Detail of one corner showing the main border
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Detail of where the inner border joins the vertical border
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Detail of the reverse of the join of the inner border to the vertical border
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Detail of an end
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Detail of the reverse of the end detail
Description
A long narrow shawl was called a scarf if it was at least three times as long as its width
This scarf has a cotton warp with a polychrome wool weft making the woven pattern.
The ground is very dark brown which might been black and has now faded. The field has rows of polychrome pine motifs, 3⅜" high, which change orientation half way along the length. The main border on each end is 9½" deep and has six larger pine motifs separated by floral sprays; the motifs face opposite directions each end, matching the arrangement of the motifs on the field.
The 1⅜" wide horizontal borders are woven on, and have red and green flowers and foliage on an ivory ground. The vertical borders, 1¼" wide, have a version of the same design, and are sewn on to the sides of the scarf.
The fringe on each end is made from strips of cotton twill in a matching colour, sewn on and frayed to produce about 1½" of fringe; it is now somewhat matted. The fringe at the ends of the vertical borders is similarly frayed from a sewn on piece of plain woven ivory silk.
The scarf is 32½" wide and 105½" long.
There was a label tied on which said "English 1825-30"; it is not known when this was added or by whom.
Contemporary illustrations
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Josephina Fridrix by Henri-François Riesener, 1813
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Fashion plate Costume Parisien, 1818
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Johanna Philippina von Knobelsdorf by Charles Howard Hodges, about 1824. Nijenhuis, Diepenheim
Contemporary items
More scarves from the Hopkins Collection can be seen in Shawls, available from the Hopkins Costume Trust bookshop.