1886 Red velvet bonnet
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1885-1890 A red silk velvet bonnet.
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The back of the bonnet
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The front of the bonnet
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Inside the bonnet
Description
The velvet is laid over a foundation of buckram. The front has a wired edge and the velvet over it is ¾" wide at the top widening to about 1⅛" at the sides and narrowing at the base to ¾" on the left end ⅜" on the right. The section lying over the top has its edges turned under over the front and the back sections; it is 2¼" wide with two tucks towards the front which are about ⅜" apart.
A folded bias strip of velvet, ½" wide, goes round the base of the back and extends each side to form the strings, 14" long. The velvet is folded unevenly so that ¹⁄₁₆" of one side shows beyond the folds; the velvet seems quite robust but has disintegrated completely about 4½" from the top on the left side string.
Folded bias strips of velvet, about ⅞" wide, form a cluster of ten loops with two narrower ones at the base of the back. A wider piece of velvet forms a puff in the centre of the top with two more each side; frills of black machine-made lace edging, 2" at its widest, go all round the top puff, higher on the left side, and is tucked between the side puffs tapering to nothing two thirds of the way down the sides. Frills of black lace of a different pattern, 1" wide, are tucked under the folded edge of the top band, two layers overlapping by ⅜".
A spray of wires with jet beads spaced out along them and tremblant loops on the ends, is tucked behind the velvet loops at the back of the bonnet.
The bonnet is lined with black glazed cotton sewn about 1" in from the front edge and gathered round the back with ⅛" wide silk ribbon over a flat piece in the back.
Contemporary illustrations
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Cartoon in Punch, June 1883
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Detail from a cartoon in Punch, March 1886
History
Bonnets gradually diminished in size during the 19th century, from their largest in the 1830s, sometimes referred to as 'coal scuttles', down to small items perched on the top of the head. It was considered that if there were strings to tie under the chin the article was still a bonnet, otherwise it was a hat.
Contemporary items
More bonnets from the Hopkins Collection can be seen in Headwear, published by The School of Historical Dress and available from the Hopkins Costume Trust bookshop.